Fall for the Golden State’s new wave of fresh, vibrant and sunshine-driven wines

The Napa Valley’s hilly terrain can produce a variety of exciting wine styles that go far beyond the traditional big, bold and oaky. Photo courtesy of California Tourism Board

What do you imagine when California comes to mind? Hollywood, Disneyland and the Golden Gate Bridge; surfers, street tacos and Erewhon smoothies?

“Sunshine, beaches and the bold flavours of Cabernet Sauvignon and buttery Chardonnay,” says Mike Cooke, wine director of Wildlight Kitchen + Bar in Vancouver.

California’s big-and-bold wines have become the state’s signature. Extravagant, oak-aged Chardonnay. Juicy Pinot Noir, jammy Zinfandel and opulent Cabernets that can creep up to 16% ABV.

San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge is one of California’s quintessential landmarks. Kate Dingwall photo

“The moment I mention California wine, guests paint a picture in their heads,” says Mike Wong, the wine director of Chambar. “Say Chardonnay and they immediately think bold and oaky. If someone asks me for a big red wine, I say, ‘What about a Napa Cab?’ and guests enthusiastically agree.”

But look closer, and that picture looks a bit different  than you might expect. Today’s California wines go far beyond those rich, bold Cabs and Chards.

“What excites me most is how this new generation of winemakers are redefining what California wine can be,” says Ajay Sehgal, food and beverage outlets manager and sommelier at Revery Toronto. “They’re challenging the norms, not just for the sake of being different, but because they genuinely believe in a more thoughtful and expressive approach to winemaking.”

Good food and fine wine are part of the California lifestyle. Photo courtesy of California Tourism Board

Breaking with stereotypes

California wine was born in the 1700s, when Franciscan missionaries planted grapes to make communion wines. During the gold rush, more vines were planted to fuel thirsty prospectors. From there, the industry boomed until Prohibition, which lasted in the U.S. from 1920 to 1933.

By 1960, only 271 wineries remained in the state.

Things changed in 1976, when several producers squared up their bottles against the prestigious wines of Burgundy and Bordeaux at the famous wine tasting that became known as the Judgment of Paris. California won and California’s wine reputation exploded.

Today, there are almost 5,000 wineries within the state’s borders.

The benchmark bottles—such as Opus One or Ridge’s Zinfandel—exude power and structure. “What excites me most about California wine is that feeling of an ‘iron fist in a velvet glove,’” says Cooke. “These wines have a powerful presence, but there’s also an elegance to them—a balance of strength and finesse that’s incredibly captivating.”

But critics will say California has flown too close to the sun. To keep up with demand, many producers adopted mass-scale farming and production practices. Chardonnay and Cabernet became defined by sameness: big fruit, high sugar and oak.

Now, a new contingent of California makers are steering their style away from the stereotypes.

The specific approach depends on the maker. Some, like Madson Wines and RAEN Winery, are approaching winemaking with a lighter touch. “These wines have a more Burgundian influence, focusing on elegance and purity—incredible Pinot Noirs and mineral-driven Chardonnays,” says Cooke. “It’s exciting for the industry.”

For others, redefining California’s future is about reconsidering grape choice. Mission, first planted by Spanish missionaries but forgotten for years as Cabernet became king, is increasingly appearing, as are Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc and even Rhône and Italian varieties.

In Carneros, Jill and Steve Matthiasson are experimenting with Italian varieties in their biodynamic vineyards. Kate Dingwall photo

Wildfires and alt-varieties

Napa’s Jill and Steve Matthiasson make a beautiful (and fully biodynamic) Cabernet and Chardonnay, but they’re also playing around with alt-varieties: Italian white grape Ribolla Gialla and red Montepulciano grown in Carneros.

Other producers are prioritizing listening to the land. “Jolie-Laide, Stolpman Vineyard, Vermillion, Trouchard, J. Lohr, Erggelete Brothers and Matthiasson,” says Robert Stelmachuk, wine director and sommelier at Mott 32 Vancouver. “They grow grapes based on what climate, soil and history offer instead of what marketing dictates.”

Other producers are just interpreting classic grapes through a fresher lens. “Les Lunes Cosmic Blend—Cabernet, Zinfandel, Merlot—isn’t your dad’s mega-purple bruiser,” says Laura Milnes, owner of Crushable Club, a Toronto wine studio. “It’s got crunch and brightness and commands you to take yourself less seriously.”

“I’m a big fan of Martha Stoumen,” says Wong. “She is the pioneer of California natural winemaking and champion of female winemakers. [Her wines are] made from typical California grapes, but they are ethereal—they make you think.”

Lexi Wolkowski, the sommelier and general manager of Parquet, a new-school French restaurant in Toronto, is a fan of Madson and Stagiaire Wine, Santa Cruz producers that work with classic varieties. “Both prize a low-intervention approach, which really underlines their cool, coastal mountain terroir,” she says. “Oh, and Arnot-Roberts and Matthiasson—the wines themselves are personal and expressive, even if they don’t fit a classic California prototype.”

With California bearing so much of the brunt of climate change, its vineyards offer a unique opportunity to learn best practices for an uncertain future. Kate Dingwall photo

Unfortunately, some producers are changing out of necessity. Wildfires, heat waves, floods and other natural disasters have pushed winemakers to reckon with their viticultural practices and reconsider what grapes work in their terrain.

In Santa Cruz, Bonny Doon Vineyard founder Randall Grahm has a 415-acre vineyard planted with thousands of grape varieties, ranging from the conventional—different clones of Pinot Noir—to the uncanny: grapes like Picolit and Ruchè. His plan is to breed new varieties that are perfectly suited to the shifting California climate.

“I really appreciate the tenacity of California producers,” says Wong. “They’ve been brutalized by climate change, forest fires, rising costs across the board—you name it. They’ve resilient in adapting and rolling with the punches.”

As Canada’s wine regions continue to mature, California’s renaissance is offering inspiration.

“There’s a lot that Canadian winemakers can learn from what’s happening in California right now,” says Sehgal.

“Canadian winemakers have a lot of the same challenges that Californian producers face, especially when it comes to our warming planet,” says Wolkowski. “It’s heartbreaking to hear what winemakers in British Columbia are experiencing right now—every region is vulnerable to the pendular weather that each vintage can bring. We have to be able to embrace change and value adaptability. We can look to California for leadership.”

Bonny Doon Vineyard is experimenting with new varieties that will thrive in the state’s shifting climate. Kate Dingwall photo

A changing palate

In the Napa Valley, producers have been investing more in white varieties—they’re picked earlier than reds, which lessens the risk of fire damage.

And white wines are selling well. “As dining trends shift towards lighter and more internationally varied cuisines, there’s a growing appetite for fresher, more accessible wines that offer both quality and value,” says Jasper Victor, general manager and sommelier at Frenchy Bar et Brasserie. “We’re moving away from the heavier, cellar-aged selections that once dominated the market, especially as wine cellars become less common in modern homes.”

Sehgal finds guests these days are savvier and willing to explore the world of wine. “People are more informed and adventurous in their drinking habits, as a wider variety of wines from across the globe become available,” he says. “They’re seeking something that challenges their perceptions and expectations.” New-school California fits the bill.

But for these wines to thrive, drinkers need to get over their conceptions of California. A lot of these new wines are haunted by ghosts of California past—remember the juicy, jammy Zins of the ’90s? “I find guests tend to assume all the Cali white is badly oaked,” says Wolkowski. “And most guests think Californian wine fits the New World tenet: more fruit, more alcohol, more oak.”

She adds: “These days, every time I sell Zinfandel, I see these attitudes change. All it takes is one wine to blow someone’s perceptions out of the water. I think the new wave of California is all about shifting these long-standing expectations.”

Kate Dingwall

Kate Dingwall is a WSET-trained wine professional and a writer, editor and photographer covering spirits, food, culture and travel for publications such as Food & Wine and Serious Eats.