La Fabrique St-George is a natural urban winery in Mount Pleasant. Photo courtesy of La Fabrique St-George
If Vancouver’s bar scene is any indication, natural wine is here to stay.
What began as a fringe offering has become a bona fide trend, with bars and pop-ups bringing interesting bottles to thirsty Vancouverites around the city.
And while natural wine may still seem like a relatively new idea, it’s actually not.
“What we now call ‘conventional’ wine is a relatively recent phenomenon, stemming from the shift towards industrial and mass-produced agriculture in the post-World War II era,” says Rich Massey, owner of importer Massey Wines & Spirits. “Wine has been made and grown without the use of preservatives, industrial fertilizers, and systemic fungicides for thousands of years. It’s exciting to watch and be a part of a cultural reassessment of those values, and a return to an appreciation of the sometimes unpredictable and untamed flavours of natural wine—as well as respect for soil health and holistic ecosystems.”
Massey credits long-time natural wineries like the Okanagan’s Lock & Worth and Synchromesh, along with Vancouver Island’s now-closed Glenterra, with opening the door for newer projects like A Sunday in August to take hold.
“Clean, low-intervention wines with low alcohol, bright acid, and a clear visual identity: it landed,” he says. “Younger drinkers connected, and for many, it was their entry point to natural wine. These early pioneers paved the way for a new wave of BC producers—farming organically and working with intention in the cellar.”
The Bar Gobo wine list consists of all natural wines. Hakan Burcuoglu photo courtesy of Bar Gobo
Natural wine is an unregulated term that essentially means little to nothing has been added to the wine during the production process.
“Let’s think of natural wine as being on a spectrum, from the zero-zero purists to low-intervention practitioners,” says Massey. “What is accepted by one is opposed by another. However, most agree that natural wines must start with organically-grown, hand-harvested grapes. Fermentations begin from only ambient, native yeasts, and the resulting wines should be unfiltered. Nothing is added or taken away, save for a small amount of sulphur at bottling for stability.”
Organic wines are made with organic grapes, but that doesn’t necessarily mean they are natural.
“All natural wine should be organically grown—but not all organic wine is natural,” Massey says. “Many organic wines start fermentation with the inoculation of commercial yeasts. These yeasts can manipulate the natural flavour of the resulting wine. Organic wines can also be filtered, and some come with judicious amounts of preservatives and additives.”
Try a natural wine flight at La Fabrique St-George. Jayme Lang photo courtesy of La Fabrique St-George
“It’s hard to imagine the natural wine scene in Vancouver without recognizing the early groundwork laid by Juice Bar,” Massey says. “They shifted the conversation early—and gave people a reason to care.”
Juice Bar closed in 2023, though it has been replaced by Bar Tartare (more on that below). Thanks in no small part to Juice Bar’s efforts, there are now plenty of options for natty wine in Vancouver, from sun-drenched patios to cheeky semi-secret spots. Here are a few to check out.
Sara is an editor, journalist, copywriter, literary agent, content strategist, and storytelling consultant based in Vancouver, BC.
Sara is an editor, journalist, copywriter, literary agent, content strategist, and storytelling consultant based in Vancouver, BC.
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