Wine Culture Magazine

The convenience of canned wine is just part of its appeal

At Lakeboat, winemaker Mireille Sauvé uses aromatic grapes to create a crushable, portable, beach-ready wine in a can. Photos courtesy of Tim Pawsey

It may be hard to believe, but there’s nothing new about wine in cans. In fact, it’s almost a century since they first were produced, in California, followed by various less-than-stellar efforts over the following 60 years or so. The most successful wines in cans were introduced by Australia’s Barokes Wines around three decades back; Barokes has since evolved into a leading global player under its globally patented Vinsafe technology.

The first North American winery in the modern age to put wine in cans was Francis Ford Coppola, which brought their sparkling Sofia (named for the famous director’s daughter) to Vancouver exactly 20 years ago. The packaging was clever and the wine quaffable, but relatively pricy. Also, in those days people were more interested in Frances Ford himself than his wines. Besides, wine in cans still sported a dubious reputation.

Back in the day, the reaction to wine packaged in anything other than bottles was somewhat predictable, even though “bag in box” had been a fixture for years: the Aussies pioneered that technology in the 1960s. Most people felt that wine that came in anything other than a bottle was inferior—and, as for Tetra Paks, a.k.a. “milk cartons,” well, as you can imagine, the purists were just plain horrified.

Of course, there are always good reasons to stick with the tried and true. Although it’s been quite a while since the Bacchanalian beverage of choice came in amphorae or hogsheads.

The appeal of portability

What has changed recently is that wine has moved from white linen dinner tables to picnic tables—and into a mainstream that, above all, craves convenience. Today, in great part, it’s millennials who are driving the wine-in-cans revolution. And their choices tend to involve a whole lot more than merely taste and tradition.

No wonder that wineries across B.C.—including Stag’s Hollow, Castoro de Oro, Mayhem, Ruby Blues, Lakeboat and Birch Block—have adopted the idea.

Cost-wise, by necessity, wine in cans is never going to appeal to the bargain shopper—at least not if it’s unadulterated wine identical to the regular glass-packaged drop. In fact, if you do the math, by the time you do buy a bottle’s worth (three times 250 mL cans) you’ll likely pay about 10 to 15 per cent more. Then again, convenience has always come at a cost.

Rather, much of the can’s appeal lies in its unbreakable, “take me anywhere” portability.

Christa-Lee McWatters, proprietor of McWatters Consulting, appreciates that accessibility. “It provides consumers the option to drink wine rather than beer or RTD [ready-to-drink coolers or cocktails], especially on the beach or golf course, at concerts, sporting and other events,” she says.

That would include paddleboarding, says Lakeboat Vineyard & Winery winemaker Mireille Sauvé, who this summer launched her own wine in can. Sauvé came up with a lower-alcohol still wine specifically for cans, the aromatic SS Wanderer (a blend of Bacchus, Ehrenfelser, Gewürztraminer and Muscat), which, she says, can be sipped “cold, straight from the can, all day, every day.”

The idea of tasting directly from the can doesn’t appeal to everyone. Indeed, it most definitely deters some would-be “cannoisseurs.” However, Sauvé says it was important for her that consumers could forgo the glass. “That tiny little opening is a far cry from varietal-specific Riedel crystal,” she says, “so we used four aromatic white grapes in the blend, ensuring that a fruity, floral aroma would emanate when the drinker raised their lips to the can.”

A break from tradition

Sustainability is also a prime consideration, especially when it comes to shipping. Wine in cans trumps bottles every time, as bottled wine has a significant impact on a winery’s carbon footprint. Not only are bottles far heavier to ship, cans are easier and far less costly to recycle and require less energy, as the material is processed at much lower temperatures.

Other reasons propelling canned wine sales may be less obvious. Consultant Erin Korpisto (Coferment Management) says while they’re “not just a fad” and do make sense from a sustainable standpoint, “traditional wine sales channels aren’t necessarily ideal.” Korpisto agrees that younger consumers are more open to them. “But for older demographics there is still a stigma to cans. This is why they do well in a winery setting where people can actually try before buying.”

The pre-portioned pour (equivalent to an Earl’s eight-ounce glass) also appeals, says Sauvé. For example, regardless of demographic, some people appreciate the opportunity to open just enough wine for one meal without having to store it for several days.

At the end of the day, while it may take longer in more cautious-to-change Canada, cans are gradually becoming a fixture on the wine industry landscape. “I think cans have a place in our market and can bridge RTD product drinkers to wine and fine wine,” says Christine Coletta, co-owner of Okanagan Crush Pad Winery.

And, besides, they’ve come a long way since Penticton’s Casabello Wines launched ”Canada Cooler” in 1984.


THREE TO TRY

Lakeboat SS Wanderer White Blend NV
(Okanagan Valley, $8.95 per 250 mL can)
Stonefruit aromatics, pear, apricot and orange blossom.

Ruby Blues Peace, Love & Bubbles, Frizzante Rosé (Merlot, Cab Franc & Gewurz) NV
(Okanagan Valley, B.C., $33.60 for a four-pack pf 250 mL cans)
Lively bubbles, strawberry, raspberry, crisp finish.

Mayhem Sparkling White 2023 (Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling)
(Okanagan Valley, B.C., $88.32 for a 12-pack of 250 mL cans; online only)
Constant bubbles. Pear, melon and peach.

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